World Wow 2: Bravo Bailey!

The genius of Christopher Bailey seems, thankfully, to know no bounds. Returning again to Milan to show, last night he debuted the Burberry Prorsum AW10/11 collection, and what a collection it was.

All Images Courtesy Of GQ

Heavily inspired by World War II, it seems Bailey has again trawled through the archives of Burberry and classic British menswear, re-evaluated it then torn up the rule book.

All Images Courtesy Of GQ

The most noticeable thing about the collection is the stunning coats, that were sent out in their droves, commons themes across the coats being gorgeous button details, oversized proportions, head-swallowing collars, shearling lining and fluidity, oh the fluidity! Whereas the original WWII version were rigid wools and thick cottons, these coats breathed movement, flexibility and decadent comfort.

All Images Courtesy Of GQ

Classic peacoats, flight jackets, reefers, trenches and mac’s were all given a modern overhaul by the Burberry’s Northern Creative Director, featuring oversized buttons, or in some circumstances a conglomeration of buttons to add an embellished standout feature, seen below as wrist cuffing. Others being made in striking colours or leather as opposed to more usual wools and cottons.

All Images Courtesy Of GQ

Again Bailey used a neutral colour palette of murky tones, khaki and brown in varying tones as well as the occasional look with more steely tones of grey and blue. This made the odd piece that didn’t fit in with the palette standout with shining brilliance such as the pictured (below) sumptuous white jumper. Or just as a flash of exuberance such as the previously mentioned button cluster embellishment this time seen on the shoulders of a jumper.

All Images Courtesy Of GQ

Sometimes what’s interesting is not what’s done but what isn’t. The strict bottom half throughout the collection of the same steely grey trousers tucked into only a minimal few pairs of boots resonated strongly that this collection was clearly about the top half and statement coats.

All Images Courtesy Of GQ

This collection was intelligent and strong playing on investment classics that will have men buying to last for seasons, but with enough about them to make them classics for a modern age.

All Images Courtesy Of GQ

With such a strong start to the menswear scheduling the remaining shows have a lot to live up to and I for one can’t wait….

Gant 60th Anniversary

A little while ago I received a press pack from Chase PR about Gant's beautiful 60th anniversary shirts and the glorious rich history of the company. The pack is printed on beautiful textured cream paper and came in a large envelope and contained a bound booklet and some separate sheets on the history of Gant. Following leafing through the pages I promptly went and bought one!

As part of the celebration Gant made 6 limited edition shirts, reinterpreted versions of classic styles. The 6 styles are The Sea Island, The Hugger, The Rugger, The Pullover, The Cashmere and The Hubby.

A press shot of 'The Cashmere'

The shirt model I got was The Cashmere, so called because its composition is 80% cotton and 20% cashmere. To touch the shirt feels heavenly, a touch that is often replicated on high streets with soft cottons, but that softness fades with washing. When the cashmere is within the shirt, made up of its very fibres, you know that softness will stay! Mmmm!

G. Bruce Boyer

Further luxurious details include sumptuous stand out mother of pearl buttons adorning the placket and the button down collar, made popular by Gant’s shirts, which G. Bruce Boyer points out gives a “consummate roll to the collar – achieved by placing the buttons three inches down from the neckband on a three-and-one-half inch collar point”, and flap front pockets with the pattern cleverly aligned so they are almost invisible. I love the shirt, everything about it is perfect and yet luxurious for a casual shirt, the fit, the texture, the richness of colours, the buttons and that roll of the collar!

My new shirt!

Another detail that I really like are the labels, not only in there vintage style, but also in there content. Each limited edition shirt label, across the six styles, tells which Gant store the shirt was exclusively supplied to and sold in. I think this gives the shirt real character and I enjoy that it has an ‘original home’ before its new pride of place in peoples wardrobes. Just above this label is another thin label containing the model of the shirt, another wonderful little detail. It’s maybe as I get older or perhaps as my taste develops that I am really starting to appreciate the details even more than I have previously. It’s what make garments stand out from others, and adds the interest and intrigue for me at the moment and why I really enjoy and appreciate this shirt in particular.

The vintage style labels up close.

Bernard Gant, the company’s founder, I was surprised to learn, invented several traits to his shirts, that now are de rigueur on many shirts today, including the locker loop, that tiny loop found on the centre of the back across the shoulders. The commerative booklet in the pack further adds on the locker loop - “Ivy Leaguers used to call it the ‘lucky loop’ because girls would rip the loop off the shirts of guys they thought were cute”, now whilst I love this romantic endearing notion, if some girl decided to rip any shirt of mine, especially this beautiful effort I would be less than impressed, needless to say it would not be the best start to a blossoming relationship!

I was further surprised to learn that he also invented the box pleat, the button on the back of the collar for keeping the tie in place as well as introducing the USA to the preppy staple, the button down collar.

Locker loop, box pleat and collar button? Check!

Gant was a label I often, foolishly, overlooked thinking it without much heritage and all too similar, though not as high end, as Ralph Lauren, but reading the material I have been sent has since seriously changed my perspective.

Initially started as predominantly available on campuses, the shirts, a preppy aesthetic stalwart, soon took off across America and beyond. From such humble beginnings, so popular did the Gant staple shirt prove that soon the company expanded to whole ranges of clothing, from head to toe.

Now readily available across the globe one of the more recent exciting projects was an advertising campaign using 10 real New Yorkers, shot by Scott Schumann (of The Sartorialist) allowing them to incorporate Gant items into their favourite looks. The results, very cleverly, allow Gant to be shown as a versatile brand that can fit in with a range of styles.

One of the ten New Yorkers.

Another modern clever marketing ploy Gant are soon to release is an iPhone application. This will tell you where the twenty nearest stores/retailers of Gant products are at any given moment anywhere in the world. As well as showing you the latest trends, styles and catwalk shows allowing you to be kept bang up to date with current collections and products. A very clever app both for user and the company, it seems the Gant wheel just keeps on turning....