The genius of Christopher Bailey seems, thankfully, to know no bounds. Returning again to Milan to show, last night he debuted the Burberry Prorsum AW10/11 collection, and what a collection it was.
All Images Courtesy Of GQ
Heavily inspired by World War II, it seems Bailey has again trawled through the archives of Burberry and classic British menswear, re-evaluated it then torn up the rule book.
All Images Courtesy Of GQ
The most noticeable thing about the collection is the stunning coats, that were sent out in their droves, commons themes across the coats being gorgeous button details, oversized proportions, head-swallowing collars, shearling lining and fluidity, oh the fluidity! Whereas the original WWII version were rigid wools and thick cottons, these coats breathed movement, flexibility and decadent comfort.
All Images Courtesy Of GQ
Classic peacoats, flight jackets, reefers, trenches and mac’s were all given a modern overhaul by the Burberry’s Northern Creative Director, featuring oversized buttons, or in some circumstances a conglomeration of buttons to add an embellished standout feature, seen below as wrist cuffing. Others being made in striking colours or leather as opposed to more usual wools and cottons.
All Images Courtesy Of GQ
Again Bailey used a neutral colour palette of murky tones, khaki and brown in varying tones as well as the occasional look with more steely tones of grey and blue.
This made the odd piece that didn’t fit in with the palette standout with shining brilliance such as the pictured (below) sumptuous white jumper. Or just as a flash of exuberance such as the previously mentioned button cluster embellishment this time seen on the shoulders of a jumper.
All Images Courtesy Of GQ
Sometimes what’s interesting is not what’s done but what isn’t. The strict bottom half throughout the collection of the same steely grey trousers tucked into only a minimal few pairs of boots resonated strongly that this collection was clearly about the top half and statement coats.
All Images Courtesy Of GQ
This collection was intelligent and strong playing on investment classics that will have men buying to last for seasons, but with enough about them to make them classics for a modern age.
All Images Courtesy Of GQ
With such a strong start
to the menswear scheduling the remaining shows have a lot to live up to and I for one can’t wait….
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