The Brogues Are Back In Town!

Well, technically they never left though like some abusive vagabond, through neglect and a plethora of London dance floors they’re not quite looking their best. Scuffed, marked and tired it’s time they were given a new lease of life. After all, it’s the season of good will and I’m getting spoilt rotten so why not bestow some of this care and TLC upon my beloved brogues.

Since I’ve bought the Grenson Archie’s a year last September, I am ashamed to say they have seen less care and attention as they deserve or should have, save every once in a while thrusting a shoe tree into their red leather lined inners or resting them for a few days.

Poor old brogues!

However Christmas, coupled with a heavily abused bankcard (I’m really not that abusive I promise you) means I can’t afford to take them in to a cobblers for a professional reinvigoration and also quite relished the challenge of doing it myself, and know I will take more care and passion in doing it than some of the ten a penny cobblers. (That said, there are many fine cobblers out there, and if you find a good one stick with them! Maybe you could send me a list of good cobblers you know and use for future reference? I’ll post the findings on this very blog!)

The jaded practice shoes...

Now I’d recently read an article on the art of polishing your own shoes and how best to do it. I had forgotten where, though that veritable fountain of menswear knowledge Steve Salter at Style Salvage filled in the blanks. Gentlemen’s Corner imparted the following article. After reading through and practicing on some other tired old shoes for practice, (see above and below) I decided I’d found a decent method…

...Don't look too bad, method found!

So I set about my favoured shoes, part with excitement at rejuvenating them and part tribulation that my inferior hands we’re about to work on shoes made and prepared by real craftsmen!

I applied a light smear of tan over the whole shoe, section by section. Working it in with some brusque polishing action! After this had given a fairly even colour and had covered all the scuffs and imperfections, I left it overnight for the polish to dry and soak into the leather. This is important so you know the true colour of the polish and can see where needs more or less work.

After one coat of polish on one shoe.

I then went over the whole shoe again repeating the process, really massaging the polish into the leather. As mentioned on the Gentleman’s Corners blog, polishing your shoes is similar to moisturising your face, not only vital and imperative but also the key is to make sure the polish really goes into the leather and doesn’t just sit on the surface. To do this I kept intensely rubbing and buffering, gripping the shoe with my legs and shimmying the duster over my shoes!

After a couple of coats to each shoe.

Now this looks good (in my personal opinion) and I felt fairly happy with the results, however I wanted to really add some character. I’ve heard and read on several occasions from many reliable sources that rubbing black boot polish over tan brogues lightly then wiping it off adds depth and character and lines the holes, really creating a vintage lived in look but still with the care and appearance of polishing.

Now while I didn’t want to risk black, for I didn’t want them to go that dark, I did want the aforementioned effect. I chose to start with a mid tan to see the results and effects, and had a mid brown on hand should I want to further my polishing investigation. As I ran the mid-tan over the toe cap and holed areas, it was coming out a bit darker and more uneven than I had planned, so I stuck to the mid tan, to give it a mild contrast to the light tan I had been buffering.

The morning after with one shoe having a mid-tan coat

After again leaving it to dry overnight I felt it didn’t actually look too dark and the slightly unevenness of the polishing actually added depth and interest and didn’t look too dissimilar to burnished calf effect some shoes have.

The toe-caps up close.

So here they are, my adored Archie’s refreshed and refurbished, a tad darker than original but the better for it! I am delighted with the results and can finally wear them out again with pride at having done it myself!

The final results with the tools of my work.

What do you think of the final results? Any public or expert opinion on what’s good or could have been done better would be greatly received!

There are several things you can and should do to maintain your shoe collection. (One of my new years resolutions, as well as extending my shoe collection, is to adhere to the following list absolutely!)

1) Use shoe trees – shoe trees help not only retain the shape of your shoes but also stretch the leather to stop it becoming creased, they also absorb the excess moisture out of the leather and shoe deposited by your metacarpals.

2) Do not wear the same shoes day in, day out. Not only will your shoes start to smell horrific as they will have no time to air and dry out, but the retained moisture will attack and destroy the leather quicker than you can say ‘gosh darn it, I liked those shoes…’

3) Get a decent cobbler, any disintegration in soles or tears and damage in the uppers can and should be instantly repaired by a cobbler. Obey this rule I saw on a cobbler stub “Shoes worth wearing are worth repairing!”

Too true!

4) Polish your shoes on a regular basis. The massaging of wax into the leather will help soften it, making it more supple but also prolonging its life. Helping to protect the leather from water, snow, friends drinks, that odd coloured cocktail a mate spilled on you etc. And generally make them look all round smarter and more spick and span. (There is also an old wives tale that women judge a man on how polished his shoes are…. Is this true? Has anyone else heard this?)

Neck It!

OK so following another week of discovery, this time challenging myself to be without my beloved shirts (results soon to follow), I return to formality and a new challenge, oh so apt for this festive season.

After recently giving my wardrobe a quick spruce (yes, I said spruce) I found many items that have lain dormant, neglected and unloved for some time. Many of them being neckwear accessories of some description. Ties, bowties, scarves (both evening and warming varieties), cravats, even oversized pocket squares all aching to be worn. While, as I have previously mentioned I do love formal flair, I often ignore the neck area focusing more embellishment upon the chest pocket of my blazer.

Why not do both? Like this fine E.Tautz mannequin picture over at Style Salvage?

Now, I feel, is the time for change. With the build up and following period of Christmas upon us everyone accepts a little more pizzazz (yes, I said pizzazz) and sense of ‘dressing up’ which should avoid sniggers from those who know oh so little! (Surely you don't even care what they think or say anyway? I know I don't, fashion should be fun!)

This week I challenge you to adorn your neck with varying garments to stretch your accessory horizons, enjoy dressing up, and harking back to a time of class and decadence!

Such grace and elegance from one of the finest exponents of accessorizing, Mr. Fred Astaire

With this I don’t just mean throw on the same mundane scarf you’ve been wearing all season! Oh no! Really experiment with what’s in your wardrobe, or better still buy something new! Christmas upon on us and a short breath from the inevitable sales what better time, or raid your favoured vintage/charity store for archaic gems.

I have taken a lot of inspiration recently from accessorizing new areas and realising just how much could be achieved, obviously from the fine fellow above but also Messr. Salter at Style Salvage, and Messrs. JKissi and Trav at Street Etiquette with not only their general out look but also the two linked stories in particular.

One man who I know will have no problem with this challenge, is a good friend of mine Aaron over at Individualism. His use of neckwear accesories has long been a source of inspiration to me, both in how and what he wears but also where from. Trawling high and low, high end and thrift stores, he even goes so far as to accessorize his findings with more accomplishment; collar pins, studs, tie clips and more have all dazzled, tiny but mighty, from his outfits. I await his results from the challenge with bated breath.....

Image courtesy of FaceHunter

I am lucky enough to already be fairly suitably stocked (though the bankcard may get a minor bashing!) with a lot of produce from the fine purveyors of dandy accessories Peckham Rye (look out for the imminent interview I recently had with the fine gents behind the British treasure trove) so keep your eyes peeled on twitter for my day to day wears!

Image courtesy of The Sartorialist

As ever I will post my results at the end of the week and would love you to do the same, send pics to my twitter or to Stevie.Style09@googlemail.com or just post them in the comments box below!

Block Paving

In more than a handful of shows this season have we seen solid blocks of colour paving the way in the fashion stakes. The current trend adds interesting shape and form to the human figure and really breaks up the silhouette and serving to highlight particular sections of the male form.

As a loftier fellow, having horizontal blocks of colour running across my body certainly helps break up my frame, subconsciously making me look broader (never a bad thing) and dare I even say it, less ‘lanky’ as I am often titled.

It has been used in many forms across the season, some choosing to have only two colours with one predominant darker shade covering the whole body over several pieces and then one block of colour highlighting a stark contrast to the rest of the outfit as seen at Raf Simons (above). Look how it highlights the model’s shoulders and arms, oh to wear a garment that made my arms so bulked and empowered! What I really love is how it detracts from the less flattering areas and highlights a man’s natural ‘V’ , with the clever use of a belt to aid the effect. Giving a modern day herculean physique all in one coat! How clever! The white is made of neoprene, a fabric becoming more and more common in high-fashion after ‘those’ neoprene trenches by Burberry a few seasons ago.

Elsewhere, the outlandish use of fabrics and bright colours really broke up the block muted tones of other shows. Christopher Shannon, a fine exponent of fabrics and colours, used many different hues stacked all the way down the torso. Snatching my attention on the catwalk with such vivid eye-catching blocks. What a delight it would be to parade so bright and loud down the street, drawing the ‘oohs’ and ‘aahhs’ that he received during his show.

One of my favourite examples of block colouring came again from Raf Simons but this time under the guise of Jil Sander’s name. The coat (as seen below) is a thing of such beauty that it leaps straight to the top of my wish-list (Winter Wardrobe). The use of different shape instead of blocks adds such intrigue and reminds me of joyous times by the seaside filling those tiny bottles with different coloured sands, this is a suggestion and memory I long to wrap around my torso and warm me against the winter chill.

(NB I know, as the more eagle-eyed of you will have no doubt noticed I've mentioned the above coat and Jil Sander's and Raf Simons collections twice in as many posts, but trust me, their work and collections make it OK! But I will avoid such blatant endorsements of one man in such a short space of time again!)

Winter Wardrobe

For those of you who are still unsure what 'wardrobe staple' means, or for those of you thinking, 'what's still missing to complete my wardrobe?' well here's the definitive list.

Every disconcerting man should have a set of winter staples that will see him through this season and many to come. Here is a list of the staples that HAVE to be in your wardrobe and the finest examples of them from the Autumn/Winter collections…

The Boots

Grenson Brogue Boots

Sturdy reliable boots that will stand a good hike round the fields as well as a jaunt through a city don’t come more apt than Tim Little’s offering of these at Grenson

The Wool Coat

Jil Sander

What more can any man want from a wool coat than gentle toying with colour and pattern with a razor sharp edge by the genius of Raf Simons at Jil Sander?

The Check Shirt

Gant

Gant’s sumptuous 60^th anniversary shirts are not only steeped in heritage and inspired by original designs by Bernard Gant, but also contain the most beautiful fabrics and details. There are three check options but my favourite is 'The Cashmere' with mother of pearl buttons and cashmere mix. Mmm!

The Suit

Raf Simons

In the winter we have a tendency to want to layer up in knits and be all cosy (ah, lovely!), however this can lead to a loss in definition and sharp lines. No such fear with this razor sharp double breasted suit. Having strong shoulders, being nipped at the waist with gloriously angular peaked lapels, means you'll stand head and shoulders above all the other 'suits in town'. Again by the genius of Raf Simons this time under his own name.

The Jeans

Albam

Simple, flattering, great colour and British made. Need I say more? Bravo Albam. Again.

The Shoes

Prada

Prada studded everything this season, including these. These shoes are ace. In no uncertain terms. Beautifully designed to classic specs of wingtip detail, and embellished toe cap on what is essentially a classic black oxford make these shoes to die for. I want them. Now. As should you, buy them, be brave and wear them to the office with a black suit and just see how much adoration you get!

The Plain Shirt

Patrik Ervell

They say the devil is in the details, well if that is the case then this shirt must be the devil incarnate. Loaded with beautiful flourishes and details to make your eyes water. Raglan shoulders, penny collared and a buttoned pocket all make this Patrik Ervell piece the perfect white shirt for the season. It has all the versatility to really lift your wardrobe and make it standout from your average white shirt. A bit smart, a bit casual, a bit sporty and, let’s be honest, a bit of class.

The Knitwear

James Long

James Long is one of the hottest designers at the moment, here he gives this jumper balance in abundance, not only in the split textures of waffle knit and mohair (highlighting tonal panelling, two winter trends in one) but also in it’s size and wearability, which are so finely balanced that it oozes perfection. Over-sized without being unpractical, wide crew neck to sit bang on trend without being too ‘drapey’ and so cosy your girlfriend is sure to pinch it, avoid this disaster by wearing it all season.

The Casual Jacket

Garbstore

This Garbstore jacket is double layered for warmth while still remaining casual enough to stuff into your satchel. The flattering standout green lifts any outfit with out being outlandish. The toggle details and brown button pockets really aide the design. Wear pared down with your Albam jeans, Gant shirt and Grenson boots or team with tweed trousers and Prada shoes for a smarter look. Easy.

(Written for LDN Fashion)

New Week Initiative!

So this week I want to stretch your horizons once again. For a week I would like you to join me by steering away from the garment you wear pretty much day in, day out.

For me, it’s a shirt. As I have previously mentioned I enjoy dressing more on the formal side and a large portion of my formality comes from the shirt. I feel comfortable in shirts, the collar the full length sleeves the placket, ahhh!

Another thing I like about the shirt is the versatility all within one garment, collar stiffness, button down or loose, how high do you button it? Do you wear it alone, with a tie, bow tie? Oh so many options!

These are just a few of the reasons I LOVE shirts, also they help cover my arms which are terribly long and slim, often getting taunted for them, I prefer them covered, and also because of my broad shoulders, I find t-shirt sleeves ride up even higher as the shoulders can often be too narrow when it fits in the body, (oh the woes of off the peg clothing, how I long for the bank balance for made to measure or bespoke!). Because of this I love shirts! (I do have one beautiful bespoke shirt made by the wonderful Emma Willis.)

So to stretch myself this week I shall, shock horror, avoid shirts for the entire week!

What is it you rely on all too often? I challenge you this week to leave it dormant in your wardrobe, (not jeans as we’ve already done that!). Be it shoes, trainers, cardigans, scarves, blazers, whatever it be give it a week off!

I’ll keep you posted on my choices, thoughts and relsults and hope you do the same, either here, on my twitter or at Stevie.style09@googlemail.com, pictures more than welcome, I’d love to do a ‘reader’s results’ post so keep them coming!

Monochromatic

As much as Calvin Harris pleaded for us to ‘get some colours on’ you cannot deny the lasting power of a monochromatic silhouette. Having stood the test of time its flattering aesthtic can’t be bettered. Though colours were in abundance pre-50’s, most of the world was viewing it in black and white. In fact I often find it difficult to imagine stylish pioneers such as Mr. Astaire and the Duke of Windsor so sharply cut in colour. It is through this osmosis of seeing classy dressers in black and white thanks to the worlds lack of technicolour that almost tricks us into thinking of black and white as well-cut and classy.

It is, of course, also associated with style and decadence through occasion (LBD’s and black tie formality), and iconic dressers wearing it with aplomb. Andy Warhol, Karl Lagerfeld, Michael Jackson, Marilyn Monroe and Audrey Hepburn were all fine exponents of the simple but effective palette, using them to raise their stature, profile and fame. This being surely one of the most iconic images of the past two decades, which is no mean feat….

Part of the intrigue with sticking to black and white clothing is the interest and variety that can be obtained simply within two shades. By keeping the palette so neutral the details, cut and shape are able to be the centre of focus. Designers have spent whole collections or even careers focusing on this alone, or at least flirting with it for a look or two in their collection. Ann Demeulemeester has long been a fine exponent of the all black look, toying with shape, form, proportion and details in varying degrees and this season is no exception, as you can see below, her extension of tailoring (below) silk edged blazers, silk top hat and proportion challenging shirt sleeves, all capped off with boots to solidify and ruched trousers to add volume to the slim silhouette.

Image Courtesy of gq.com/style

Another fine example of black detailing this season comes from Julius with their 277COM8 Knit Coat (below).

Image courtesy of helloblackbird.blogspot.com

It shows wonderful depth and texture, belying a more mundane description of ‘black overcoat’. One of it’s strengths is it’s versatility, the layered lapel being able to be used in many forms as seen at BlackBird. I challenge you all to raid your wardrobe and play with these two shades for the next week and just see how much more experimental you can be by steering away from your go to uniform of jeans and top….

Such versatility from one coat!

Keep It On The DL (8/12)....

….Was a great success! Thanks to everyone who came down and made it such a brilliant night! It was a night of fantastic music, joy and general frivolity!

We sold out and had a nice balance of friends and walk ins come through the doors. Unfortunately as I was busy bodying about hosting and frantically worrying that everything ran smoothly I was unable to grab a photographer and take official photos of you and your amazing outfits!

However I took some unofficial photographs and our In-House photographer at DownLow Promotions, Jack Maurice took many great photos of you and the four tremendous bands.

First up were the raucous Right Turn Left, who are a brilliant four piece hailing from Tooting, where they host their own club night, Sex, Soup and Music, (which is very nearly as good as ours!) at the Tooting Tram And Social, the next one is Monday with the excellent Pete and the Pirates. They played a half hour set filled with catchy riffs and feet tapping choruses.

Right Turn Left

Next up the rambunctious Recusants, another four piece, who’s slightly more chilled feel coaxed new arrivals into the venue with melodic vocals and harmonious guitars.

Then came the sumptuous Shutes, with their haunting vocals from front man Mike Champion, which were surreal and eerie. The three piece, who travelled all the way from Isle Of Wight that very morn (thanks guys) to play especially are really one’s to watch for 2010.

The Shutes

Finally for the bands, (introduced by yours truly) came headliners and co-hosts, the delightful and dangerous Daytona Lights, who in no uncertain terms lifted the lid on the fashionista hive. Toying with tempo, vocals and riffs the 5 piece from Hackney crashed through a terrific (though all too short) 40 minute set, leaving the audience visibly yearning for more.

With something for everyone these guys are sure to be massive sooner rather than later with the boy bouncing ‘Sons and Lovers’, the women warming ‘We Fall’ and the all round audience elevating ‘Same Feeling’ and ‘Rotten Wood’.

Daytona Lights

With many new fans earned on the night, only a fool would miss their next resident slot on Tuesday 26^th January, with two other very secret bands, (stay tuned for those) at Keep It On The DL!

Sorry!

An Apology

I would just like to say a brief apology for a distinct lack of blogging since my launch, this is due to a lack of internet at home until 21^st DECEMBER! But fear not I will maintain, when I can, frequenting local cafes and public houses with WiFi to bring you your fashion bites and will be returning to my parents house soon for Christmas who have Wifi in abundance! Again apologies for the slow start!

An Update: This very morn, Sky decided to give us internet again, finally I am reconnected to the world! Look forward to many posts today to catch up!

Anti-Denim Week

Recently I ran an initiative through my Stevie Style twitter account to go a week without wearing jeans.

I felt it would really help me stretch my sartorial versatility, and I all too often, as so many men do, rely on the legwear stalwart.

The results we’re quite interesting and really helped lift my outfit, adding texture and interest to an area so often neglected, especially by men.

Here are some of the results of my experiment –

(It is also at this point I should point out I, very clearly, am not a photographer, and do need to get one! Any volunteers?)

Grey Pleated Engineered Trousers - Topman Limited, Black Hi-Tops - Converse

One of the more difficult things in breaking away from denim can be the fear of being too formal. However this brings two thing to my attention, firstly there are many great options of casual trousers, with some fine examples, one of which being these by Acne and secondly formality is not to be feared!

Navy Blue Chinos - Dr. Denim, Orange Socks - UniQlo, Deck Shoes - Sperry

I fear men dress in quite a slovenly way on all too often an occasion, we should take pride in the way we dress. This is a notion I have long thought, often erring on the side of formality myself, and one that has been raised by Patrick Grant, the head designer behind the fine Norton and Son and E. Tautz, and highlighted here by Style Salvage.

This is an issue I am going to delve into further in another post as I feel quite passionate about it and don’t want to veer to far from my Anti-Denim week.

Herringbone Trousers - Topman Design, Tan Brogues - Grenson

So back to it! I had some lovely remarks on alternatives and also some confusion from friends, (“Why are you wearing suit trousers?” Oh dear, such friends!) but I ploughed on regardless. I found not wearing denim made me think more about the top half options as well. It prevented me falling back on tried and tested outfits and really experiment. I toyed with some concepts I have been thinking about a lot recently, autumnal rich colours (again partly inspired by this beautiful story on Style Salvage), proportion, silhouette balance and alternative fabrics.

I also took pride in playing with the afore mentioned formality. Dressing casual trousers up, smart trousers down or following the formality of the trousers, be they smart or casual, through the whole outfit.

Unfortunately I didn’t get anyone to take full outfit photos (Ah the benefit of hindsight) but I really enjoyed having a twist on a week and stretching my sartorial horizons.

I have a good few ideas for more limitations that stretch our thoughts, so keep your eyes peeled and join me in the exploration of how we clothe ourselves!

If any of you took part in Anti-Denim week, I’d love to hear/see what you wore and how you found it? I will post your photos and findings! If you didn’t, why not try it yourself this week! Let me know here or you can email me on Stevie.Style09@googlemail.com.

Keep It On The DL....

As some of you may know, I am hosting, with the brilliantly talented Danny Daytona (of Daytona Lights ) a monthly club night in celebration of music and fashion, and on a personal note to celebrate the launch of this very blog. (Which I have been procrastinating over for far too long!)

'Keep It On The DL' is holding it’s launch party this Tuesday, (8^th Dec), at The Old Blue Last from 8pm.

The night, which I am (and I hope you are) very excited about, will be compared by myself and will feature 4 great bands. The order will be Right Turn Left (8pm), The Recusants (8:45), The Shutes (9:30) and hosts and headliners Daytona Lights (10:15)

Though obviously very excited I have pangs of nervousness, how will it run? Will the bands be received well, will I host ok? Oh the woes! Though I know you will love the bands as they are a more than a little bit special! I am sure it will all run smoothly.... (fingers crossed!)

There will be someone filming the night and I will be conducting interviews with the bands and maybe to some of you about your outfits and inspirations, and there will also be a photographer taking photos both of the band and crowd alike. Keep an eye out for the pictures of you finely dressed people on this very page! Also all the photos will be on Daytona Lights myspace and DownLow Promotions facebook, (which you should join so you know about the forthcoming Keep It On The DL evenings first!).

Hope you have a great night and please let me know any feedback! Pop back here for post night analysis and pics!

Ss

Stevie Style Launch!

Welcome!

This is my brand spanking new blog dedicated to men's fashion and style.

I hope to begin with you a journey to discover past, present and future news and views on all things linked with what 'style' is today.

I'll be looking at companies, street and catwalk trends, expanding opinions on the way we dress and answering questions received from you the reader. So please feel free to write in with any questions concerning the minefield of style and modern menswear.

I'll also be interviewing some of the finer and more unsung heros of the fashion world, as well as delving into the closets of London's better dressed men.

I hope you enjoy, and any feedback would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks,

Stevie Style